In some ways, I feel like I am married to Paris. Oh, Paris! The world capital of arts, gastronomy, fashion…! For a very long time, living in Paris has been a sort of dream for me. I diligently learned its language and culture, and on each visit, I took maximum advantage of the limited time I spent in the city, in order to get acquainted with its people, cafés, lifestyle, atmosphere… In short, it was a magical love affair.
Now that I live here in Paris, the magical feeling has somewhat faded away, but I still feel a very strong affection for the city. Each time I come back from a trip abroad or elsewhere in France, I cannot help but be impressed by this certain Parisian atmosphere: the ensemble of the Haussmannian architecture, the terrace seats of its cafés, the people, the food, the lights…
At the same time, thanks to this trip to Germany, my heart has found a new love : Munich. For the time being, I am not ready to give up my love affair with Paris. But Munich has left a profound impression on me, and the desire to know more about this city continues to grow. Is it the beginning of another great love story? In summary, I feel as though I am having the sweetest secret love affair with Munich, even though I am married with Paris.
So, here are some of the reasons why I fell in love with Munich:
The Englischer Garten
Munich without the Englischer Garten is unimaginable! Munich is the Englischer Garten and the Englischer Garten is Munich. This vast park that lies north to the historic Altstadt is one of the largest and oldest urban parks in the world. And as such, one finds an incredible diversity of landscape in the park, such as rivers, quasi-beaches, amphitheatres, waterfalls and even beer gardens! Münchener and visitors alike can be seen enjoying this huge green space for various activities, be they picnic, reading, sports, sunbathing or just simply walking around. There is even a nudist section in the park. There is something for everyone, as long as one respects common-sense rules and the privacy of the others (very German).
My favourite place in the Englischer Garten is the lovely beer garden near the so-called Chinese Tower (der Chinesicher Turm). It is a perfect place to try out local food, and the offering here is quite diverse. While slightly touristy, the prices are not excessive and the quality of food more than acceptable. Being allergic to alcohol, I also appreciate the fact that there are many non-alcoholic beverage options, such as non-alcoholic beer, juice and Apfelschorle (apple juice mixed with sparkling water).
Cafés
When I did not have any engagement, I loved sitting in cafés and spending time watching the world go by, reading books or doing my German homework.
I found a concentration of good coffee shops in Schwabing and Neuhausen areas. My favourite café is Colonial in Neuhausen near Rotkreuzplatz station (U-Bahn). I used to go there for breakfast every morning before heading out to my German class.
Munich’s cafés are cozy and friendly places, and are slightly different from Paris’ cafés. For one, the coffee is quite different : in Paris, most people take espresso, except in the morning; in Munich, most people drink coffee drinks made with milk all day long. As the drinks are bigger, Munich people tend to stay longer in cafés. Cafés tend to be more comfortable and conducive for reading and writing too. Paris’ cafés have a more social function, and are places for Parisians to meet, mingle and most of all, discuss. People come and go. The comfort is not necessarily provided. Secondly, in Munich, most cafés ask you to order and pay first before sitting down. In Paris, you sit down first and wait for the waiter/waitress to take your order (with the notable exception of Starbucks, of course).
Architecture
Compared to many German cities, Munich definitely exudes a “southern” feel. Baroque and Rococo-style buildings abound and are dotted throughout the city. There are several exemples of the so-called “Italianate” architecture, such as the Theatinerkirche (Theatine Church) on Odeonsplatz. And when one pushed through the front doors of the Asamkirche (Asam Church), one is transported to what I might describe as a “Mexican” church: elaborate ornaments, lavish paintings, shining objects…
My favourite among the southern-influenced buildings in Munich is the Michaelerkirche (Saint Michael’s Church) on Neuhauser Strasse. The façade with its numerous sculptures of saints is striking, and the interior is just as impressive. It is known as the biggest Renaissance structure north of the Alps.
On the other hand, some of Munich’s most emblematic buildings, such as the Neues Rathaus on Marienplatz and the Frauenkirche with two dome-topped towers, are defiantly Gothic, affirming links with the rest of Germany and northern Europe.
The abundance of important buildings bears witness to Munich’s colourful past as the royal capital of the Bavarian monarchs. Furthermore, the fusion of the southern and northern influences gives Munich a special touch in its cityscape. Consequently, I found the city a tad more colourful and charming than, for example, Frankfurt or Berlin.
For more on Munich’s architectural links with Italy, I recommend reading this blog:
Munich, Part 7 – This City is Where Italy Starts – Or Does It? Rethinking the Patronage
Inspired Snob Travel
Les Flâneries 